OUCH!

This photo was sent to us from Dave G. in San Antonio, Texas. This shows why our product is needed on the Super Duty trucks and Excursion SUVs. Dave lost his golf clubs while standing in line in a sub shop for lunch. His truck was right outside and he only had his back turned for a few minutes.

Dave found us on the internet and installed the product himself, too late for his golf clubs, but ready if someone else trys the same thing.

Read through the following tutorial to see how to install the Jimmi' Jammer. Don't wait till it's too late!

Front Door Installation

Photo 1

The first photo shows the inner door panel. First, remove the electric lock and window switch module from the door panel by carefully prying in an upward motion. The module is shown here just after it came out of its' mounting position.

Notice that the window is in the up position.

Two screws hold the panel to the door and the panel will lift off. Read on...

Photo 2

Remove the upper trim piece by prying it away from the door metal. The posts are all plastic so work carefully. Pull the trim straight off the door.

Photo 3

Pull the switch module out of the cavity only far enough to allow you to get a grip on the connectors. Use care to not stress any of the wires.

Most connectors lock into the connected position. Look for the release tab before pulling too hard on the connector. Do not pull on the wires, grab the connector only by the housing. See Photo 4 below.

Photo 4

Disconnecting the window switch and door lock switch from the switch module. Note the locking tabs on each connector.

Photo 5

With switch module removed, you can now remove the first panel bolt, shown here in the center of the picture in the switch module cavity.

Remove this bolt now.

Be careful not to lose the bolts.

Photo 6

The courtesy lamp lens on the outside, lower corner of the door panel snaps into place in the panel recess. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently pry one end out first. There is a small slot on the lens for this purpose. Work carefully, the lens should come out easily.

The second panel fastening bolt is also in the lamp recess area. Remove this bolt now.

With the two bolts removed, you should be able to lift the panel straight up and then away from the door metal. Don't pull away too far, you must remove the courtesy lamp from its' holder. See Photo 7 below.

Photo 7

Carefully disconnect the courtesy lamp before moving the door panel away from the door. Twist the bulb holder and then pull the assembly out of the holder. The bulb will remain on for some time, then will usually go off by itself. (It is on a timer circuit.)

Photo 8

Next, gently peel back the splash guard starting at the top corner near the door lock knob.

Photo 9

Peel back the splash guard far enough to get your arm into the cutout area shown here near the center of the picture. You do not need to remove the splash guard completely. Peel gently to preserve the adhesive on the splash guard.

Photo 10

Remove the rubber plug in the door jamb. This will give access to the upper door handle mounting nut inside the door.

Loosen the upper nut, but don't remove it. Two or three turns loose is enough to allow a little handle movement while you put the plate on the other stud.

Photo 11

All of our newer Super Duty kits are funished with correctly sized hose clamps to put around the lock cylinder holder. This reinforces the lock holder to help prevent the plastic from breaking.

Remove the lower door handle nut completely from the stud. (Not shown here.) Put the hose clamp in place as shown below in photos 12 and 12a.

Bring the plate into the door through the open area, as shown to the right. The cutout in the plate should surround the lock cylinder on the top and bottom as shown in Photo 12 below.

You may have to push the handle out from the door slightly to allow enough room for the plate to be mounted. Put the plate mounting hole over the lower handle stud and replace and tighten the nut. Position the clamp as shown in photos 12 and 12a. Snug up the hose clamp now.

Re-tighten the upper nut and replace the rubber plug.

Now is a good time to use your key in the lock to test the movement. Make sure there is no interference..

Photos 12 and 12a . Detail of clamp positioning.

Shown outside of door for clarity. You should be able to do this without removing the handle from the door.

Photo 12 (top) shows how to install the clamp first, with the screw to the side. Do not tighten yet. Then, put the plate over the stud and back of lock cylinder as shown.

Photo 12a (bottom) shows the clamp after it is spun around to its final position. Leave it loose until the plate is on as you will need to move it around to get the plate on. once the plate is seated and the clamp is in place as shown, snug down the clamp. Do not over-tighten as the plastic lock holder may crack. Snug is good enough.

If your truck has a lock cylinder only on the drivers side, you won't need a clamp on the passenger side. Put the plate on the passenger side anyway as it will help block access to other rods inside the door. If your truck has a lock on the passenger door, the process is the same as shown for the driver side.

Photos 13 and 13a

Some later model trucks (2006 and newer) may have this bracket on the handle. (Black with yellow tip in photo 13 or just black in photo 13a.)

The bracket shown in photo 13 is metal and should not interfere with the Jimmi' Jammer plate. But the handle in photo 13a is molded as part of the handle and is larger. If your truck or replacement handle has this plastic bracket, plates from kit PN 103000 may need to be trimmed to fit properly. Alternatively, call or email us and we can work out an exchange for a newer plate style that will fit over the plastic bracket.

We know of no way to tell if your truck will have either bracket or no bracket without looking inside the door. However, from what we've seen so far, trucks manufactured before the 2007 model year probably won't have the plastic leg, and not even all 07 or 08 trucks will have it. It also seems that trucks manufactured before 2006 model year won't have either style bracket.

This bracket was apparently added to recent model years to help prevent the handle from being easily pulled away from the door where a thief could then move the rods. Although somewhat effective, the bracket will not help prevent prying under the handle to get at the rods, or smashing the lock into the door. The Jimmi' Jammer will help prevent these common methods of entry as well.

Finishing up

Now that the first door has the plate in place, test the function of the lock assembly. Once everything is confirmed as ok, you can re-assemble this door in reverse order. The other door will be easy!

Now you can place the window warning label in the lower cornder of the window. Place carefully since the adhesive on the stickers is really good.

This completes the front door installation. Four door truck owners continue to scroll down this page.

Do you have comments or suggestions? Feel free to visit our contact page and send us an email. We also have free tech support should this tutorial not answer all your questions.

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Ford Super Duty and Excursion Rear Door Installation

Note: Door components and locations may vary from year to year and between models. This tutorial is a general guide only.

Photo 1 shows the rear door panel.

Photo 2

Remove the reflector cover on the lower outside edge of the door. These may be held in with two small screws or snap into place. Work carefully to avoid breaking the lens.

There is a panel holding screw located behind the lens. Remove this screw.

Note: Put your screws in a little pan to avoid losing them.

Photo 3

Gently pry the window control cover up from the arm rest assembly. It is held in place with some snap clips around the perimeter.

Photo 4

Disconnect the switch by pulling the connector apart. Watch for locking tabs on the connector that need to be depressed or pulled away from connector body to release the connector halves.

There is another panel mounting screw located behind the switch cavity. Remove this screw.

Photo 5

With screws removed, panel should easily lift up and away from door. It may be necessary to disconnect the handle pull cable from the handle to get the panel off.

If the panel does not come easily, look around for additional panel screws.

Photo 6

Loosen and remove the nut from the lower corner of the handle assembly. See the nut in the next photo.

Photo 7

This is the lower handle mounting nut. Remove it.

Photo 8

Put the Jimmi' Jammer plate over the stud as shown here. The bend in the plate should go toward the door metal. If the plate touches the door metal along the bottom edge, use a flat washer between the plate and handle mounting tab on the door to create a space. If your rear door handles have the brackets as described in Photos 13 and 13a in the front door tutorial above, the rear door plate can mount over the bracket. Use flat washer(s) as needed to gain some space, the plate does not have to be perfectly parallel to the door metal to be effective. This will only be an issue if your handles have the brackets.

Put the nut back on the stud and tighten into place. Do not over-tighten.

Reverse the steps to put the panel back on. Test the window and locks to make sure everything works.

Once complete, install the window warning label supplied with the kit.

You may now proceed to the other rear door.

Note: Every effort is made to accurately portray the installation process. From year to year, and sometimes within a model year, the vehicle manufacturer makes changes to the door components. If you find a significant difference from this tutorial, please let us know.

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