OUCH!

This photo was sent to us from Dave G. in San Antonio, Texas. This shows why our product is needed on the Super Duty trucks and Excursion SUVs. Dave lost his golf clubs while standing in line in a sub shop for lunch. His truck was right outside and he only had his back turned for a few minutes.

Dave found us on the internet and installed the product himself, too late for his golf clubs, but ready if someone else tries the same thing.

Read through the following tutorial to see how to install the Jimmi' Jammer. Don't wait till it's too late!

Note: We now recommend removing the lock cylinder from the handle completely. This is the only way to prevent thieves from forcing something into the lock body and bending all the tabs inside the lock to gain entry. Using the PunchPlug™ with the Jimmi' Jammer® will help prevent the most popular methods of entry on your truck! Details

Front Door Installation

Photo 1

The first photo shows the inner door panel. First, remove the electric lock and window switch module from the door panel by carefully prying in an upward motion. The module is shown here just after it came out of its' mounting position.

Notice that the window is in the up position.

Two screws hold the panel to the door and the panel will lift off. Read on...

Photo 2

Remove the upper trim piece by prying it away from the door metal. The posts are all plastic so work carefully. Pull the trim straight off the door.

Photo 3

Pull the switch module out of the cavity only far enough to allow you to get a grip on the connectors. Use care to not stress any of the wires.

Most connectors lock into the connected position. Look for the release tab before pulling too hard on the connector. Do not pull on the wires, grab the connector only by the housing. See Photo 4 below.

Photo 4

Disconnecting the window switch and door lock switch from the switch module. Note the locking tabs on each connector.

Photo 5

With switch module removed, you can now remove the first panel bolt, shown here in the center of the picture in the switch module cavity.

Remove this bolt now.

Be careful not to lose the bolts.

Note: 2008 and newer trucks may be different, see below.

2008 and newer Super Duty door panel

On 08 and newer trucks, there should be 2 screws along the bottom edge, remove those.

There is also a small door under the arm rest. Gently pry this door out of it's spot, and you should find two more screws there. Remove these also.

Some trucks may not have the courtesy lamp in the next step. In that case, skip steps 6 & 7.

Photo 6

The courtesy lamp lens on the outside, lower corner of the door panel snaps into place in the panel recess. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to gently pry one end out first. There is a small slot on the lens for this purpose. Work carefully, the lens should come out easily.

The second panel fastening bolt is also in the lamp recess area. Remove this bolt now.

With the two bolts removed, you should be able to lift the panel straight up and then away from the door metal. Don't pull away too far, you must remove the courtesy lamp from its' holder. See Photo 7 below.

Photo 7

Carefully disconnect the courtesy lamp before moving the door panel away from the door. Twist the bulb holder and then pull the assembly out of the holder. The bulb will remain on for some time, then will usually go off by itself. (It is on a timer circuit.)

Photo 8

Next, gently peel back the splash guard starting at the top corner near the door lock knob.

Photo 9

Peel back the splash guard far enough to get your arm into the cutout area shown here near the center of the picture. You do not need to remove the splash guard completely. Peel gently to preserve the adhesive on the splash guard.

Photo 10

Remove the rubber plug in the door jamb. This will give access to the upper door handle mounting nut inside the door.

Loosen the upper nut, but don't remove it. Two or three turns loose is enough to allow a little handle movement while you put the plate on the other stud.

Photo 11

Disconnect the rod from the lock pawl. A good trick is to use the round shaft of a screwdriver to open the lock clips on the pawl, allowing the rod to slip out easily. If you just pull the rod, the lock clips on the pawl will break.

The trick is to push the shaft of the screwdriver in until it touches the rod in the pawl, then pull both out at the same time.

Photo 12

Remove the lower door handle nut completely from the stud. (Not shown here.) Check that you have the proper plate for the door you are working on, the plates are marked "Driver" or "Pass".

Bring the plate into the door through the open area. The cutout in the plate should surround the lock cylinder on the top and bottom as shown in Photo 12 below. (Note the plate in this photo is an older design. Your plate will look like the one in Photo 12.)

Put the lock pawl through the large hole in the plate, then swing the plate into position and slip it down on the stud.

You may have to push the handle out from the door slightly to allow enough room for the plate to be mounted and/or move the lock pawl up or down using the key in the lock to get the plate over the pawl. Put the plate mounting hole over the lower handle stud and replace and tighten the nut.

Photos 12 and 12a.

NOTE: These photos show the door latch assembly and handle pull rod disconnected for clarity. You shouldn't have to disconnect either to install the plates.

Photo 12 (top) shows the plate in place with the handle mounting nut back on. Don't tighten the nut yet just put it on the stud.

All of our newer Super Duty kits are furnished with correctly sized hose clamps to put around the lock cylinder holder. This reinforces the lock holder to help prevent the plastic from breaking.

Photo 12a (bottom) shows how the clamp fits, with the screw to the bottom. First, slip the clamp around the lock cylinder holder.

Next, push on the plate surface around the lock to get the plate seated against the snap clip that holds the lock in the plastic holder.

Now tighten down the clamp. Do not over-tighten as the plastic lock holder may crack. Snug is good enough.

Last, snug up the handle mounting nut. Do not over-tighten.

Passenger side note: If your truck has a lock cylinder only on the drivers side, you won't need a clamp on the passenger side. The plate on the passenger side will be similar, but without the hole for the lock cylinder. PUT THE PLATE ON EVEN THOUGH THERE IS NO LOCK! Thieves may still be able to get into the door cavity with a screwdriver if you don't have the plate on the passenger door. Trucks that have a lock on the passenger door will have a plate similar to the driver side plate with the hole for the lock.

Note: We now recommend removing the lock cylinder from the handle completely. This is the only way to prevent thieves from forcing something into the lock body and bending all the tabs inside the lock to gain entry. Using the PunchPlug™ with the Jimmi' Jammer® will help prevent the most popular methods of entry on your truck! Details

Photos 13 and 13a

Some later model trucks (2006 and newer) may have this bracket on the handle. (Black with yellow tip in photo 13.) Others may have a molded plastic leg on the handle as shown in photo 13a.

Either bracket style should not interfere with the plate, but if it is in the way, you may be able to add a flat washer onto the stud, behind the plate to gain a little space. In most cases this should not be necessary.

This bracket was apparently added at the factory to help prevent the handle from being easily pulled away from the door where a thief could then move the rods. It is helpful in that respect but does not prevent prying in under the lock or smashing the lock into the door, two very common methods of entry on these trucks.

Finishing up

Now that the first door has the plate in place, test the function of the lock assembly. Once everything is confirmed as ok, you can re-assemble this door in reverse order. The other door will be easy!

Re-tighten both handle nuts as needed and replace the rubber plug in the door jamb.

Now you can place the window warning label in the lower corner of the window. Place carefully since the adhesive on the stickers is really good.

This completes the front door installation.

Four door truck owners continue to scroll down this page to see the rear door tutorial..

Do you have comments or suggestions? Feel free to visit our contact page and send us an email. We also have free tech support should this tutorial not answer all your questions.

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Ford Super Duty and Excursion Rear Door Installation

Note: Door components and locations may vary from year to year and between models. This tutorial is a general guide only.

Photo 1 shows the rear door panel.

Photo 2

Remove the reflector cover on the lower outside edge of the door. These may be held in with two small screws or snap into place. Work carefully to avoid breaking the lens.

There is a panel holding screw located behind the lens. Remove this screw.

Note: Put your screws in a little pan to avoid losing them.

Photo 3

Gently pry the window control cover up from the arm rest assembly. It is held in place with some snap clips around the perimeter.

Photo 4

Disconnect the switch by pulling the connector apart. Watch for locking tabs on the connector that need to be depressed or pulled away from connector body to release the connector halves.

There is another panel mounting screw located behind the switch cavity. Remove this screw.

Photo 5

With screws removed, panel should easily lift up and away from door. It may be necessary to disconnect the handle pull cable from the handle to get the panel off.

If the panel does not come easily, look around for additional panel screws.

Photo 6

Loosen and remove the nut from the lower corner of the handle assembly. See the nut in the next photo.

Photo 7

This is the lower handle mounting nut. Remove it.

Photo 8

Put the Jimmi' Jammer plate over the stud as shown here. The bend in the plate should go toward the door metal. If the plate touches the door metal along the bottom edge, use a flat washer between the plate and handle mounting tab on the door to create a space. The flat washer may also be needed if your handle comes with the leg as described with photo 13 and 13a in the front door tutorial above. If your handle does have the leg, just put the plate on over the top of the leg and add flat washer(s) to the stud behind the plate if needed.

Put the nut back on the stud and tighten into place. Do not over-tighten.

Reverse the steps to put the panel back on. Test the window and locks to make sure everything works.

Once complete, install the window warning label supplied with the kit.

You may now proceed to the other rear door.

Note: Every effort is made to accurately portray the installation process. From year to year, and sometimes within a model year, the vehicle manufacturer makes changes to the door components. If you find a significant difference from this tutorial, please let us know.

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Now that you are finished securing your cab, check out our Gate Keeper® to prevent easy theft of your tailgate!

Also, protect your engine compartment from thieves by installing our Hood Latch Guard!